Route Overview
Why Drive Around Balaton
Lake Balaton is sometimes called the Hungarian Sea, and when you are standing on its shore on a summer afternoon watching the light shift across 77 kilometres of water, the name makes sense. It is the largest lake in Central Europe by surface area, and driving its full circumference takes you through landscapes that shift from volcanic hills and vineyards on the northern shore to the flatter, sandier beach towns of the south.
Most Hungarians visit Balaton for the beaches, which are genuinely good, especially around Siofok and Zamardi on the south shore. But the northern shore is where the interesting driving is. The road between Balatonfured and Keszthely winds through wine villages, volcanic plateau edges, and the kind of scenery that rewards slow driving with the windows down.
I have driven this loop in both directions and at different times of year. The route described here runs anticlockwise, starting from Budapest on the M7 motorway and arriving first at the southern shore before crossing to the north.
Getting to Balaton from Budapest
The M7 motorway takes you from Budapest to the eastern end of Balaton in about 90 minutes. The exit for Siofok, the main southern town, is well signposted. You need a valid Hungarian e-matrica for the M7.
A worthwhile alternative is to leave the motorway at Szekesfehervar (exit 63) and take Route 7 the remaining 40 kilometres to the lake. The last section of this road passes through open countryside and gives you the first glimpse of the lake from higher ground, which is a better introduction than the motorway.
The Southern Shore
Siofok
Siofok is the unofficial capital of the southern shore and the busiest beach resort in Hungary. In July and August it has a distinctly holiday-town atmosphere with beach bars, water sports, and a surprisingly lively nightlife scene. The main beach is long and well-maintained with paid entry in summer.
For a quieter alternative, drive 10 kilometres west to Zamardi. The beaches there are less crowded and the village has a more relaxed character. The old village centre has a few traditional houses worth walking past.
Driving West Along the South
Route 7 follows the southern shore all the way to Keszthely at the western end of the lake. The road passes through a succession of small resort towns, each with its own beach access. The drive itself takes about an hour and a half without stops, but the flat terrain and lake views make it pleasant. Traffic can be heavy on summer weekends, particularly between Siofok and Balatonszemes.
The Northern Shore
Keszthely
Keszthely is the oldest town on the lake and feels quite different from the resort towns on the south shore. The Festetics Palace is the main attraction, a baroque palace with a library that holds over 80,000 volumes. The old town centre around Fo ter is walkable and has a good selection of restaurants.
Keszthely is also the starting point for visiting the Heviz thermal lake, about 6 kilometres west. Heviz is the largest biologically active thermal lake in the world, and you can swim in it year-round. The water temperature stays between 24 and 36 degrees Celsius depending on the season.
The Badacsony Wine Region
Continuing east along the northern shore, the landscape changes dramatically. Volcanic hills rise steeply from the lakeside, and the slopes are covered with vineyards. The Badacsony area produces some of Hungary's best white wines, particularly from the Olaszrizling and Szurkebarat grape varieties.
Several wine cellars along the road between Badacsonytomaj and Abrahamhegy offer tastings without appointment. The views from the upper vineyards across the lake are exceptional, especially in the late afternoon when the light turns golden.
If you want to hike, the trail to the top of Badacsony hill (437 metres) takes about 45 minutes from the village and provides panoramic views of the lake and the surrounding hills.
Tihany Peninsula
Tihany is a small peninsula that juts into the lake from the northern shore, and it is the single best stop on the entire circuit. The village at the top of the peninsula is built around an 11th-century Benedictine abbey, and the views from the abbey terrace across the inner lake and the main lake beyond are among the finest in Hungary.
The village itself is full of lavender shops and traditional craft stores, which can feel touristy in peak summer, but the atmosphere is genuine enough. The Inner Lake (Belso-to) is a separate small lake within the peninsula, surrounded by walking trails through lavender fields.
Allow at least two hours for Tihany. Parking in the village is limited and fills up early on summer mornings, so arrive before 10:00 if possible.
Balatonfured
Balatonfured has been a resort town since the 18th century and has a more refined character than most of the lakeside towns. The Tagore Promenade along the waterfront is the main attraction, a tree-lined walkway with views across the lake. The town's cardiac hospital, originally built around the local mineral springs, gave Balatonfured its reputation as a health resort.
The town is a good base if you want to split the circuit over two days. There are several mid-range hotels and guesthouses in the centre, and the restaurants on Blaha Lujza Street serve good local food at reasonable prices.
Practical Details
- Fuel: Petrol stations are frequent along both shores. The largest MOL stations are at Siofok and Balatonfured.
- Parking: Most lakeside towns charge for parking in summer (typically 300-500 HUF per hour). Free parking is available on the outskirts of smaller villages.
- Swimming: Public beaches (strand) have entry fees of 800-1500 HUF in summer. Free beaches exist but are less well-maintained.
- Road quality: Route 71 along the northern shore is winding in places and narrower than the southern Route 7. Drive carefully, especially between Badacsony and Tihany.
- Accommodation: Book ahead for July and August. The northern shore is generally better value than the south. Balatonfured and Tihany are the best bases for one-night stops.
The Balaton Region website maintains current information on events, beach conditions, and ferry schedules. The Tihany-Szantod ferry runs every 30 minutes in summer and cuts across the narrowest point of the lake, saving a significant detour if you want to switch shores quickly.